CALIBRE 1

Five years in the making, Calibre 1 is Chanel’s first in-house movement completely conceptualised and manufactured at its watchmaking manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

Launched in 2016, the manually wound integrated movement includes 170 components and features two complications. An oversized jumping hour indication, a retrograde minutes display, and small seconds subdial depict the time.

The unusually designed retrograde minute complication flawlessly executes Chanel’s high watchmaking vision. In place of the traditional semicircular retrograde minute scale, it features a 240-degree arc that provides a more instinctive approach to reading the minutes. Considering Chanel's affinity for numbers, it also makes perfect sense to use a digital hour indicator rather than a traditional hour hand.

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CALIBRE 1

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Five years in the making, Calibre 1 is Chanel’s first in-house movement completely conceptualised and manufactured at its watchmaking manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

Launched in 2016, the manually wound integrated movement includes 170 components and features two complications. An oversized jumping hour indication, a retrograde minutes display, and small seconds subdial depict the time.

The unusually designed retrograde minute complication flawlessly executes Chanel’s high watchmaking vision. In place of the traditional semicircular retrograde minute scale, it features a 240-degree arc that provides a more instinctive approach to reading the minutes. Considering Chanel's affinity for numbers, it also makes perfect sense to use a digital hour indicator rather than a traditional hour hand.

Monsieur de Chanel

Chanel finally debuted its first men’s collection, Monsieur de Chanel, in 2016. First offered in white or beige gold, the decisively masculine watch has an elegant round 40-mm case with a boxed sapphire crystal, a classic opaline dial, and exclusively designed numerals. Stunning variants introduced over the years include a bejewelled version in white gold with more than 11 cts of diamonds, as well as Monsieur Lion Edition, featuring a Grand Feu enamel dial with a sculpted gold lion.

Watchmaking prowess

When the retrograde arc is wider, it requires more force to return the minute hand to zero, potentially resulting in the hand snapping in half. An ingenious solution prevents this from happening by managing the hand’s speed at the last microsecond so that it can travel further (and thus, faster) without causing damage. Furthermore, a study of shock resistance and energy consumption was imperative to ensure the aluminium hour discs moved accurately for the full 80 hours of power reserve.

It's all in the details

As befitting Chanel's identity as a watchmaker, the anthracite ADLC-coated movement has a modern architecture. Subtle touches like the play on finishing and the colour on the wheels (reminiscent of the trimming on a Chanel jacket), the small lion motif on the movement, buckle and crown, along with a star-shaped balance wheel, all pay homage to the couture house.

CALIBRE 2

A year after launching Calibre 1, Chanel introduced its second in-house movement in 2017. Calibre 2 is also its first in-house movement for ladies, and it was conceived and developed at its watchmaking manufacture in La-Chaux-de Fonds.

The camellia-shaped skeleton movement exemplifies Chanel’s belief that design should always serve technique. Rather than designing around the movement’s main architecture (mainspring barrel, gear train, and balance wheel), everything revolves around the camellia-shaped bridges.

The camellia, founder Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite flower, continues to inspire Chanel in infinite ways. More than just a flower, it is one of Chanel’s most cherished emblems.

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CALIBRE 2

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A year after launching Calibre 1, Chanel introduced its second in-house movement in 2017. Calibre 2 is also its first in-house movement for ladies, and it was conceived and developed at its watchmaking manufacture in La-Chaux-de Fonds.

The camellia-shaped skeleton movement exemplifies Chanel’s belief that design should always serve technique. Rather than designing around the movement’s main architecture (mainspring barrel, gear train, and balance wheel), everything revolves around the camellia-shaped bridges.

The camellia, founder Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite flower, continues to inspire Chanel in infinite ways. More than just a flower, it is one of Chanel’s most cherished emblems.

Collection Première

Calibre 2 debuted in the Première Camélia Skeleton watch, and is housed within the maison’s very first watch silhouette, Première. Launched in 1987, exactly 30 years before the introduction of Calibre 2, it features a case inspired by the harmonious proportions of the Place Vendôme in Paris (which also inspired the octagonal shape of Chanel’s iconic N° 5 bottle stopper). It is a proud beacon of Chanel’s inimitable style.

Watchmaking savvy

The skeletonised movement is composed of circular bridges, stacked over different levels and designed to resemble a camellia flower. Ensconced between two sapphire crystal planes, the 3D movement appears to float unencumbered. Setting the gemstones onto the movement components takes great skill and dexterity from both the maison’s watchmakers and jewellers. Like precious lace, the gemstones seem to have been embroidered into the metal.

Adaptations: calibres 2.1 and 2.2

Calibre 2 was later adapted to fit within the round case confines of the Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Skeleton watch. Renamed Calibre 2.1, the reworked movement features a round main plate alongside other minor changes. It also features a diamond-bevelled bridge and a gold plate set with 185 brilliant cut diamonds.

In 2018, Chanel introduced Calibre 2.2, another modified version of Calibre 2. It features a much larger main plate – 39.2mm across to be precise – and an amorphous diamond-like coating on the bridges. The movement is housed within the Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch, a unique piece that comes with a jewelled stand that allows it to double up as a desk clock.

CALIBRE 3

Introduced in 2018, Chanel’s third consecutive in-house calibre is proof of its ambitious watchmaking plans. Similar to Calibre 2, Calibre 3 is a manual-winding skeletonised movement built in a graphic 3D style. Devoid of any lateral support and any visible screws, the movement appears to be suspended in space, giving it an air of enigmatic allure that can be admired from both the front and back. Unlike the Calibre 2’s decisively feminine floral structure, Calibre 3 is more understated and composed of vertically arranged circular bridges and cogwheels in black ADLC edged in beige gold galvanic coating.

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CALIBRE 3

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Introduced in 2018, Chanel’s third consecutive in-house calibre is proof of its ambitious watchmaking plans. Similar to Calibre 2, Calibre 3 is a manual-winding skeletonised movement built in a graphic 3D style. Devoid of any lateral support and any visible screws, the movement appears to be suspended in space, giving it an air of enigmatic allure that can be admired from both the front and back. Unlike the Calibre 2’s decisively feminine floral structure, Calibre 3 is more understated and composed of vertically arranged circular bridges and cogwheels in black ADLC edged in beige gold galvanic coating.

My Boy.Friend

Its gender-neutral design explains why it is introduced in the Boy.Friend Skeleton Calibre 3 watch. Launched in 2015, Chanel’s androgynous Boy.Friend collection features a new case shape that is a larger, bolder and more angular adaptation of the beloved Première case.

Creative Canvas

In 2021, Chanel took the concept of transparency further by offering the watch in a fully transparent sapphire case. The Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray reveals more of the Calibre 2 movement and shows off the delicate craftsmanship of the bottom plate and bridges.

Chanel also revealed the Boy.Friend Skeleton in beige gold, its exclusive 18k gold alloy, complete with the Calibre 2 entirely gilded in the proprietary shade of gold. Beige has long been regarded as one of Gabriel Chanel’s signature hues, along with black and white, and is used extensively across the maison’s varied product lines.

After black and beige, Chanel adds a daring splash of red to the latest iterations of the Boy.Friend Skeleton. Both red editions boast the Calibre 2 with scarlet bridges that contrast beautifully against the beige gold wheels.

CALIBRE 3.1

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CALIBRE 3.1

Introduced in 2021, Chanel’s Calibre 3.1 is a technical feat that demonstrates the maison’s unique approach to watchmaking. The idea was to push the limits of Chanel’s watchmaking capabilities by further developing the concept of transparency and suspension so that the movement appears to float unencumbered within the case. Calibre 3.1 boasts a base plate, a timer bridge and a cogwheel bridge made of sapphire crystal — a material that is as beautiful as it is difficult to manufacture because of its rigidity and fragility. These three crucial components are not only tiny, but also extremely thin, measuring only 0.5mm to 1mm.

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Introduced in 2021, Chanel’s Calibre 3.1 is a technical feat that demonstrates the maison’s unique approach to watchmaking. The idea was to push the limits of Chanel’s watchmaking capabilities by further developing the concept of transparency and suspension so that the movement appears to float unencumbered within the case. Calibre 3.1 boasts a base plate, a timer bridge and a cogwheel bridge made of sapphire crystal — a material that is as beautiful as it is difficult to manufacture because of its rigidity and fragility. These three crucial components are not only tiny, but also extremely thin, measuring only 0.5mm to 1mm.

J12

Though the seafaring Helleu was instinctively inspired by the yachting world, it took him seven long years to materialise his grand design. Chanel introduced the world's first watch entirely composed of high-tech ceramic, the functional, timeless J12, in 2000.

J12 X-Ray

In an industry that has seen its fair share of innovations, Chanel’s world premiere is no mean feat. The J12 X-Ray takes transparency to its most extreme interpretation by being the first watch ever to have a bracelet composed of links cut from raw sapphire crystal. Aside from several necessary metal components and the addition of some scintillating baguette-cut diamonds, the rest of the watch is also made from sapphire crystal. This includes the case, dial, plate, timer bridge and cogwheel bridge. Only 12 of these watches were produced.

CALIBRE 5

In 2022, Chanel unveils Calibre 5, the jewel in the crown of its spectacular high watchmaking journey. It incorporates a flying tourbillon — cantilevered only at its base, without the upper bridge of the tourbillon cage – that allows for an unobstructed view of the full carriage. Within the diamond-set cage is a 0.18-ct 65-facet solitaire that rotates with the mechanism, serving as a fancy small seconds indicator.

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CALIBRE 5

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In 2022, Chanel unveils Calibre 5, the jewel in the crown of its spectacular high watchmaking journey. It incorporates a flying tourbillon — cantilevered only at its base, without the upper bridge of the tourbillon cage – that allows for an unobstructed view of the full carriage. Within the diamond-set cage is a 0.18-ct 65-facet solitaire that rotates with the mechanism, serving as a fancy small seconds indicator.

Calibre 5 was designed in Paris by Arnaud Chastaingt, director of Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio, and produced at the Chanel manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
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Not to be missed is its lion's head. A faithful guardian of time, the mighty lion is a permanent fixture in all Chanel's in-house calibres, cherished as a talisman of strength by the brand's founder Gabrielle Chanel.

Diamond Standard

The most distinguishing feature of the new J12 Diamond Tourbillon Calibre 5 is the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, on which sits a very special 0.18-ct diamond solitaire. Chanel has not compromised on perfection for a watch of this gravitas. The team searched hard for a diamond that would yield the best table-to-depth ratio so that it would appear large, but wouldn’t slow down the tourbillon’s performance. In the end, the brand created a bespoke 65-facet cut to crown its latest feat.

Flying tourbillon

Chanel is no stranger to flying tourbillon escapements. Its first watch to be equipped with one was the Première Flying Tourbillon of 2012, which had a tourbillon cage in the shape of a camellia flower. That movement was built by the watchmaking maestros at Renaud & Papi (APRP SA), who replaced the camellia with a bejewelled star in 2014. As for the Calibre 5, it is an entirely new and original design by Arnaud Chastaingt. A sleek black circular bridge architecture that has defined Chanel's haute horlogerie movements for the last six years is partly exposed on the watch's front and back.

CALIBRES DE CHANEL

CALIBRES DE CHANEL

CALIBRE 1

CALIBRE 1

Monsieur de Chanel

Watchmaking prowess

It's all in the details

CALIBRE 2

CALIBRE 2

Collection Première

Watchmaking savvy

Adaptations: calibres 2.1 and 2.2

CALIBRE 3

CALIBRE 3

My Boy.Friend

Creative Canvas

CALIBRE 3.1

CALIBRE 3.1

J12

J12 X-Ray

CALIBRE 5

CALIBRE 5

Diamond Standard

Flying tourbillon